Pattern Drafting

4. Drafting techniques

Drafting techniques refer to the systematic methods used to create patterns accurately on paper using body measurements, calculations, and pattern-making tools. These techniques ensure precision, proper fit, and balanced garment construction.

1. Flat Pattern Drafting

Flat pattern drafting is the process of drawing patterns on paper using body measurements and mathematical calculations.

Characteristics:

Done on a flat surface (pattern paper).

Uses rulers, set squares, French curves, and measuring tape.

Based on standard or individual body measurements.

Importance:

Ensures accuracy and symmetry.

Forms the foundation of garment production.

Widely used in both custom-made and industrial garment construction.

2. Pattern Manipulation (Slash and Spread Method)

This technique involves cutting (slashing) and spreading or overlapping sections of a basic block to create new styles.

Uses:

Adding fullness (e.g., flared skirts).

Creating gathers, pleats, or darts.

Adjusting garment shape and design lines.

3. Pivot Method

The pivot method is used to move darts from one position to another without cutting the pattern.

Procedure:

A pivot point (usually the bust point) is marked.

The pattern is rotated to shift dart position.

Maintains the original fit while changing design.

4. Drape Method

Draping involves shaping fabric directly on a dress form or mannequin to develop a pattern.

Advantages:

Ideal for complex or creative designs.

Allows visualization of garment flow and structure.

Common in couture and high-fashion design.

5. Grading Technique

Grading is the process of increasing or decreasing a pattern size proportionally to create different sizes.

Purpose:

Used in mass production.

Maintains garment proportions across various sizes.